After a relaxing break from travel spent in our beautiful country of Bulgaria, we are slowly starting to think of our next travels. Thankfully, Greece is in our backyard so we had the lucky chance to jump over to Athens for a quick trip as a way to get back in the groove. 🙂

Things to do in the city

First, almost everything is closed on Sundays here. Something to keep in mind as you plan your trip. You may not prefer this day of the week unless you enjoy emptier streets and a lot of closed cafes. We arrived on a Sunday morning which surprised us with a fairly ghost-like city with gorgeous ruins but less than welcoming alleys and corners. Athens, as every big European city, has its problems and you will see them once you leave the tourist zone or come during a less visited season or day.

Plaka

Plaka is one of the most visited neighborhoods in the city. It is full of picturesque houses, streets and souvenir shops. There is a variety of hand-made items from olive wood utensils to dresses and paintings. In the distance, you see the incredible beauty of the Acropolis looking over all of Athens on one of the tallest hills around. Mount Lycabettus is actually the tallest by elevation hill in Athens but not as visited. On top of it you can find 360 degree views of the city plus a quaint church welcoming you when you get there.

Plaka offers countless cafes and taverns where one can sip on a cold frappe (a famous Greek beverage made of foam, instant coffee and ice-it tastes better than it sounds..) or enjoy a Greek salad. The problem with Plaka is that, you have to remember, it is a tourist area so expect an unfavorable price/quality ratio. There are streets that you can enter if you turn away from the main one and you will find the same items for a lot cheaper and you can also find plenty of charming family-owned taverns. The more rustic the tavern, the better the food. You have to look away from the main strip to enjoy the best and most authentic meals. One thing is for sure – hospitality is not lacking anywhere in Greece. So be prepared to be treated with respect and an honest smile by the majority of the Greeks.

You can start your walk around Plaka around Hadrian’s Arch, visit around some of the shops & cafes, and reach the Ancient Agora. There, you can spend hours exploring the remains of ancient Greece and learn about the interesting stories of this unique city’s history.

Monastiraki

Here you can find the famous Monastiraki Flea Market which is open on Sundays and where you can find many Greek arts and crafts. We did not find as unique as we could have hoped but it is something to do here if you are in the area. There is plenty of shopping to do if that is something you are interested in. Monastiraki Square itself is a great hang-out spot and a starting point for exploring the center of ancient Athens. Here you can find the ruins of Hadrian’s Library and a small church where a lot of the city tours begin. I recommend booking a walking tour where you can learn plenty of facts (and myths!) about the city as you walk around the sites. You will get plenty of local tips of where to eat (more on that later!), shop, and visit around.

Ancient Agora and the Acropolis

Even though we did not enter these two sites, we saw a lot from the outside but wished we explored inside as well. Those are the most famous sites in Athens if not in all of Greece and are worth to pay them a visit. The Ancient Agora used to be gathering place and served as an important area in Greco-Roman and Byzantine times. Temple of Hephaestus is here-probably one of the few intact temples in Greece dating from 415BC. Hephaestus was the only Greek God that was represented as “imperfect” and unattractive. He was the God of craftsmanship and fire and married to Aphrodite.

Needless to say, the Acropolis is an attraction worth seeing. You can see the Parthenon, dedicated to the goddess Athena towering above Athens. The Theatre of Dionysus is also there, considered the first theatre and the birth of Greek tragedy. Odeon of Herodes Atticus is another must see open-theatre where to this day you can see plays and musicians.

Gastronomy

Athens is full of great restaurants and affordable fast-food joints. You can never go wrong with a traditional kebap, falafel (for us, vegetarians out there) or souvlaki. We recommend Ríganē as one of the good ones where you can eat a delicious kebap for 2euro accompanied with wonderful wine for 4euros.

Of course if your goal is not eating questionably healthy food each day and want variety, then do not worry-there is plenty of taverns scattered around the city. We stayed in the neighborhood Kypseli that was just as vibrant as the ancient town centre.

Taverna Aris is heaven for seafood lovers. It is located next to Central Municipal Athens market which is full of seafood and meats meaning freshly cooked food at the tavern any time! Here you can find some of the best seafood in your life. The atmosphere is casual and cozy and the service is impeccable. Anywhere we went in Greece, you were greeted with a smile and were always given dessert or a drink on the house. How can you not come to Greece and want to never leave?

Aspro Alogo is a family-owned tavern we visited nearby Syntagma Square where you feel like you are part of a Greek family with all imperfections, chaos and delicious food. The restaurant was busy and could not handle the people for its size but the food more than made up for it. Do not hesitate to come back here despite the tavern’s rustic appearance.

For good coffee, we recommend Coffee Dive Acropolis which is a small cafe offering variety of drinks and good place to read a book or browse.

Atitamos was another place we visited that offered cozy atmosphere surrounded by trees and greenery as well as delicious food. However, portions were not as expected and left a bit disappointed because of it. If you find yourself in the area of the National Archaeological Museum, this is a fantastic option for lunch.

Transport

Athens is easy to get around no matter the place you stay. It is probably best to stay within the centre or close by but if on a budget like we were, areas like Kypseli provide a good balance of safety, liveliness and proximity to the attractions.

Probably the biggest expense transport wise would be any taxi you take. Try to avoid them as much as possible because prices are very high unless you have a group of people. A taxi from airport to the centre of Athens is around 40euros. You have two better options-a train for 10 euros or a bus for 6 euros. The train is every 30minutes and a very fast and convenient way to get to most places where visitors stay.

The metro in Athens is fairly easy to navigate, comes often and is affordable. You can buy a card where you load tickets and one will cost you 1.35euro. For an European country, this is one of the best prices. You can get a daily pass if you will do a lot of travel for the cost of 4.50 euro. The tickets work for metro, buses and trams.

Trips around Athens

Agistri Island is a small island one hour away from Athens that is easily reachable by ferry from Piraeus, the main port of Athens. The ferry costs between 10 and 14.50 euros and goes back and forth often enough that it is a great option for a day trip to a beach.

The island does not offer much to do but it has enough to visit around for a day. There are wild beaches as well as beach chairs and bars depending on what you look for. The water is crystal clear with not a wave in sight. You feel like you transported yourself far away from every worry you may have. Since we went in September, the island was fairly empty with few tourists walking around the streets.

Glyfada is another good option if you have extra time in the area. It is easily reachable by tram or bus from the center and you can visit if you like to have that urban environment mixed in with a beautiful beach. There are free umbrellas on the rocky beach as well where you can enjoy the view away from the sun. It is not the best beach by any means but it is easily accessible and a relaxing way to spend a hot summer day.

When we headed to Athens, we were not really sure what to expect. We almost always go for nature tourism and secluded places rather than cities. Athens surprised us with a vibrant atmosphere, delicious food, interesting history and tremendous hospitality! It is probably my fifth time in Greece and I will keep returning. There are so many more places to see and things to explore in this gem of a country. Even though most people spend very little time in Athens as a jump-off point to the next island, I think it is a destination in itself. We could have easily spent more time there and we are looking forward to another visit!

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Mark Twain

A very common way of travel in Vietnam is from one end of the country to the other. It is fascinating to see how Vietnamese culture changes with each place but keep in mind that the transport is not as safe and convenient as you may be used to. But here is how our long trip went:

Hanoi – Sa Pa

This was probably our easiest and most comfortable ride minus the endless turns near Sa Pa (bring motion sickness tablets). The landscape dramatically changes as the elevation increases and the rice fields from all directions start to appear.  Sa Pa was an easy 6-7-hour ride from Hanoi and is a place bubbling with tourists. We stayed in the town which may not have been the best idea since locals will try to sell you anything or scam you every time you go outside. We hiked alone but were interrupted by countless kids, women and families trying to “guide” us through the rice fields for money. It was not a comfortable stay in Sa Pa for that reason and our experience was ruined. The surroundings are beautiful but nothing like what we saw in Ha Giang where locals did not care as much that we were visitors. If you have limited time and prefer off the beaten path places, Ha Giang is a better option.

Sa Pa – Ha Giang

A long bus journey that took us to the highlight of our Vietnamese trip! See our previous post for details of this unique experience.

Ha Giang – Cat Ba Island (Halong Bay)

If you visit Vietnam, anyone you talk to will tell you to go to Halong Bay. It is one of the most famous nature landmarks of the country. Limestone cliffs spread all over the sea. The best thing to do here is to hire a boat and tour the little islands. We stayed at Cat Ba Island for just a few days to get a feel of the town and enjoyed some of the views from land. There are a couple of viewpoints the most famous one of which is Cannon Fort. Cannon Fort is a great spot to admire the view of the sunset but it was unfortunately closed during our stay. We found a path a bit past Cannon Fort to a smaller view point. It was thankfully empty and still beautiful. Ask the locals for exact directions but you should be able to see the stairs to the that viewpoint from the Cannon Fort path.

Cat Ba is a picturesque town but it was packed with Vietnamese tourists due to the season (late June). Make sure you pick a lower season for more space and lower prices.

Cat Ba Island (Halong Bay)—Ninh Binh

Our next stop was Ninh Binh and took about 3-4 hours from Cat Ba consisting of a bus, speed boat and another bus after. Ninh Binh was hot! Make sure you check temperatures and visit in a cooler season. It was definitely the hottest place we went in Vietnam (for reference, it was late June). We stayed in a quaint homestay in Tam Coc where we rented a motorbike for 100,000 VND (4.30$).

Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Centre, a King Kong movie location and a great spot to go on a boat tour among the limestone cliffs. The heat did not allow us to enjoy the beautiful nature fully but what we saw was stunning. Hang Mua (Mua Caves) was another spot to visit where you climb up two different spots for a panoramic view over the area. However, the locals ‘guarding’ the parking lot so you illegally pay a fee to park are aggressive and dangerous. I recommend skipping Hang Mua for that reason. There are several pagodas to visit around as well – Bich Dong, Bai Dinh are among the bigger ones. Bai Dinh Pagoda is Vietnam’s largest Buddhist complex consisting of several temples and Buddha statues.

Ninh Binh—Phong Nha

This was one of the most uncomfortable bus rides of the trip. We had to take a night bus which took us from Ninh Binh around 8:30 at night and left us in Phong Nha around 3:30 in the morning. Needless to say, it was not the most convenient time to check in a homestay but we had luck with our host who let us in to sleep. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is most famous for its large cave systems and oldest karst mountains in Asia. The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is visited by many adventure enthusiasts. The world’s largest cave, Son Doong, is located here (expedition there costs 3000$). There are many tours offered to different jungle treks and caves but only Oxalis Adventure organizes the expedition to Son Doong.

The cave we went to is Phong Nha Cave. To reach, you need to go to the boat terminal in Phong Nha, in the end of the main street, and book a boat and an entrance to the cave. The boat can carry up to 12 people so it is best to gather some new friends and split the cost. We traveled with a few more couples which made the trip more fun and more affordable! Phong Nha Cave is over 7km deep and was used as a hospital and shelter during the Vietnam War. Many of Vietnam’s caves were used for protecting soldiers or hiding equipment. The cave has a subterranean river system which allows you to explore it by boat but there are some dry chambers and areas to walk as well. The cave is the largest I have seen and has the most unique “mouth” or entrance. You know you are in for an adventure just nearing the cave. Other cave options are the area are Paradise Cave (very similar to Phong Nha and you need motorbike or tour to get there), Elephant Cave, Dark Cave, Tiger Cave.

Phong Nha is one of the places we would not mind returning to in Vietnam, along with Ha Giang. Unfortunately, weather did not cooperate and we witnessed downpours which were not appropriate for hiking and cave exploring.  

Phong Nha—Hoi An

Another middle of the night journey was upon us. We took a bus at 4 in the morning in pouring rain and headed further South, to Hoi An. Hoi An is a frequently visited town for its ancient architecture, picturesque streets, beautiful cafes and delicious banh mis. It is a central coastal town with a decent beach but its charm lies in the Ancient Town and the river passing through it. The town has Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese and French influence. The diversity of the nationalities who left their footprint here has made this place the most unique in Vietnam. You can spend hours walking or biking through the tiny streets of Hoi An.

We cannot forget to mention that the most delicious banh mis in all of Vietnam are located here. Banh mi is a Vietnamese sandwich made from a baguette, pickled vegetables and multitude of meats. Of course, nowadays with the prevalence of vegetarians, there are substitutions for meat in the form of marinated tofu, plain omelette or avocado. The best banh mis you can find are in Hoi An. The top three are The Bahn Mi Queen, Bahn Mi Phuong and Phi Bahn Mi. It is best to try all three and make your own choice. 😉

Hoi An is also known for the number of good coffee shops around. We were not big fans of the Vietnamese coffee but we found some great spots around Hoi An for a cold Americano. Vietnam is famous for its semi sweet beans which are roasted in caramel oils – it makes the taste of the coffee quite unique and not for everyone. I honestly prefer just a regular strong flavorful cup that tastes as bitter as possible without any hint of sugar. We did try the famous Vietnamese Coconut coffee made of coconut milk and condensed milk which I have to say tastes like a really good ice cream dessert. Egg coffee, another specialty of the Vietnamese people, is made from condensed milk, egg yolks, sugar and robusta coffee.

The best way to explore Hoi An is by bike. Most homestays will offer a bike for free but you have to be mindful of all the cars, pedestrians and motorcycles which share the road. If this was my first day in Asia, I would have definitely said ‘NO’ to biking. Most important advice is to be careful and keep your eyes open. The benefits of the bike include easy parking and no haggling by the street vendors. You get to burn some of those banh mi calories as well!!! 🙂

Hoi An—Nha Trang

Another night bus journey behind us. We left Hoi An around 6:30PM and arrived in Nha Trang around 4AM. We did not have the luck of an early check in this time so we spent time on the beach watching the sunrise when we arrived in this coastal tourist town. Nha Trang is a very unique place, nothing like what we have seen in Vietnam so far. It is technically a beach town but do not envision one of those picturesque, quiet and romantic getaways of Southeast Asia. The place is packed with Russian and Vietnamese tourists, some of which have destroyed the beach. The beach itself is very long with decently clean water and is full of restaurants and bars. Nha Trang was a nice stop for a day or two especially if you need some rest while on the long trip across Vietnam. Outside of the beach and the mud baths, there is not much to do here. In fact, the food is not great and pretty much everything is overpriced.

Nha Trang—Mui Ne

Mui Ne was another quick stop on the way South to Ho Chi Minh. We stayed here two days before heading to our final destination. Coming from Northern Vietnam, we noticed nature becomes more dull as we go south and there is less to do. The two main attractions of Mui Ne are the sand dunes and the Fairy Springs (scenic stream for hiking through and ending on the beach). The beach was unfortunately destroyed here by waves, storms and inappropriate construction. I would not recommend Mui Ne as a destination. There is some kite surfing in one part of the beach if that is something one is interested in.

Mui Ne—Saigon

Our final bus trip was completed in style! We took a 3S Limo bus for around 10$ with spacious seats, a calm driver and working WiFi. It took about 5 hours to reach Saigon from Mui Ne.

We liked Saigon a lot more than Hanoi. I am not sure if it was the Western vibe or the attitude of the people but we felt a lot more comfortable exploring here. The city seemed beautiful and offered countless restaurants, cafes, bars, spas and shops. You cannot get bored here. The city is very busy and overcrowded with motorbikes coming from all directions. The atmosphere here was like nowhere else in Vietnam. Chaos and crowded streets are the norm day and night. Vietnam’s largest market is located here as well – Ben Thanh Market. Here you can find two sections–one section with stands where you can negotiate pricing and one section that has only fixed price stands. You can find some nice items for yourself and as gifts. Make sure to bargain and you can find quite the deals. Just mention a fair price to you and start walking away from the merchants and you will see quickly enough that they will sell you the item at your terms. If you do not like bargaining, there is always the fixed price section of the market.

We stayed in District 1 which is most famous for entertainment, sightseeing and is one of the top locations to conveniently see the city. You can easily walk to the Ho Chi Minh’s Theatre (Saigon Opera House) and admire the buildings full of history nearby. Ho Chi Minh used to be a capital of French Indochina and later of South Vietnam. Despite some destruction during the wars, Saigon still has some colonial buildings and historical sites.

As far as food goes, we cannot forget to mention one of the best restaurants we have been to in Vietnam: Hum Vegetarian. With beautiful decor and calming atmosphere, the restaurant offers tasty dishes made only with healthy ingredients.

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”

Anthony Bourdain

Jump to the map of the route we took

If you love stunning landscape, long motorcycle rides and immersing yourself in local culture, then Ha Giang Loop will be a perfect fit. After arriving in Hanoi, we quickly departed the business of the city life and went 7 hours north to start a journey that will quickly become the highlight of our trip to Asia.

The loop starts in Ha Giang and goes around the province through various roads and scenic views. We spent 3 nights (4 days) on a motorcycle exploring the loop but it could be completed in as little as 2. I highly recommend taking your time in order to see the many viewpoints and meet the locals.

Our trip started in Ha Giang then moved to Yen Minh, Dong Van, Meo Vac and Du Gia. We stayed in Ngan Ha Homestay in Ha Giang the day before and the day after we completed the loop in order to rest. We had to give our bodies some rest after the tiring journey. We were able to get fantastic breakfast and a new motorbike from the lovely host we had in Ngan Ha Homestay. She advised us on where to go as well despite her limited English.

DAY 1

We took off early from our hostel in Ha Giang, right after breakfast (7:30AM). It is best to leave as early as possible to avoid traffic, heat and any possible police checkpoints. It took us 3-4 hours to make it to our lunch spot near Quan Ba and another 3-4 hours to our night stop in Yen Minh. On route to our stop for the night we stopped multiple times to admire the view revealing around us. One of the great stops on the road is Quan Ba Heaven Gate where you can find fantastic coffee and fresh bananas while you enjoy the scenery below you. You will see a lot of backpackers stopping there. You can climb up on top for a better 360 degree view or just hang out at the cafe below. Either way, the views are incredible! We came back here on our way back to Ha Giang as well.

Even though Heaven Gate is the highlight of the beginning of the journey, there are many incredible sights you will see on the motorbike journey even before you hit this spot. The roads curve, go up and down through the mountains and reveal beauty left and right. If one spot is foggy, do not get discouraged because there is plenty to see.

Lung Khuy cave was an even bigger highlight for us. Do not skip this spot, it was 100% worth a stop. The cave is spectacular and the entry fee is only (50,000 VND or 2$). You get a torch and you are ready to explore inside a massive cave. Our hike there was about 1 km even though you can stop a bit closer with a motorbike. We were sweaty and exhausted by the time we made it up to the cave but the views were as always incredible! This is one of the best caves we have been in. It has been recently discovered (2015) and does not see many tourists from what we saw.

If you choose to hike, bring water! It is a long way up and the heat has no mercy.

After exploring the cave, we went back to the closest town of Quan Ba, had lunch and continued our journey. The views from the motorbike were worth the ride in the heat. We were sore for days after but our souls were happy which is what matters most. 🙂

We reached Yen Minh around 3PM exhausted and sweaty but extremely happy with our journey so far. After seeing a few homestays, we decided to stay at Phuc Anh Homestay right on the main street and we could not have had a better experience anywhere else. The family who runs the homestay is extremely welcoming which is unfortunately rare in Vietnam from what we have experienced. The rooms were clean and comfortable. We ended the night with a homemade family dinner with the host family and a Spanish couple. Despite some language barriers we made the best of it. 😉

DAY 2

We started the day with a delicious bahn mi and some good coffee at our homestay. Our host was nice enough to take us all the local morning sunday market where you can see many ethnic minorities and local communities selling produce, chickens, crafts and clothes. Actually, you can probably find anything there. It gives you a glimpse of local life since we were the only foreigners exploring. It was one of our favorite experiences during the Ha Giang loop. You see how locals live and you get to experience their food and way of life. We stayed only a couple of hours since we had to continue on the journey to our second night stop but took some great photos.

We had to start packing up well since the weather was not looking good on the second day. There was a high chance of rain which is very common for the area. We did end up getting caught in quite the downpour but it was closer to the end of the day. We had ponchos and plenty of covers for our bags on the motorbike. It was a not a pleasant ride on the second day but the views made up for it. We made it to Pho Bang village but the weather was deteriorating and we could not see much. We had a quick coffee and continued towards another detour from the loop – Lung Cu and the Chinese border. We had many stops that day since every few minutes a new beautiful landscape revealed itself.

Getting to Lung Cu accompanied us with a lot of fog but still stunning views. The road was very steep and we reach quite high level of altitude. We made it to the Lung Cu flag point which was nothing special. The best part came a bit further (about 10-15 minutes) to the viewpoint of Vietnam’s northern-most point. I added this viewpoint on the map. From there you can see breathtaking views of both Vietnam and China. Weather was bad but we still were able to see stunning mountains and a big river underneath. This was definitely one of the highlights in terms of landscape in ALL of Asia. Pictures do not do justice for the natural beauty we saw.

We spent quite a bit of time wandering around Lung Cu but time was moving fast and the rain became worse. We decided to head to Dong Van and our accommodation around 4:30PM. I had a freakout moment when we stepped into a new timezone (1 hour ahead) near China and thought we will end up driving back in the dark. Sunset is quite early here so we have to plan ahead.

The second night we stayed at Binh Minh hostel in Dong Van. Dong Van is the biggest town on the loop so there are decent options for (vegetarian) food, coffee, gas, etc. Most travelers stay at least one night here.

DAY 3

Unfortunately, Day 3 started cloudy and cold in Dong Van. We quickly head a bahn mi and a coffee and headed on the road. One of the highlights if not the biggest highlight of the trip you would read about online is the Ma Pi Leng Pass which is about 18 km from Dong Van and on the way to Meo Vac (the next town on the loop). The pass is a windy road in between the mountains and a river below. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate and we mostly saw rain and fog.

Day 3 concluded in Du Gia, a small village in the middle of the loop. We reached Meo Vac and continued north and encountered some more dramatic views but the road which led to Du Gia was too bad to continue. We had to go back north to Meo Vac and head west that way. It took longer and we made it in Du Gia around 4PM but we were never short of things to see.

In Du Gia we stayed in a bungalow at Backpacker Garden Homestay. The place was very social so if you want to make other travelers, this is the perfect spot. Du Gia does not have many places to stay so accommodation prices are a bit inflated (250,000K for a shared bathroom, private bungalow). You are basically right in the jungle so plenty of mosquito repellant was needed. Family dinners are normally given at the homestay so you can pay (between 50K – 100K per person) and eat plenty of dishes. Meat-free options are always available. Du Gia was situated in a valley around the mountains and next to a river – truly a place to relax after a long ride. The homestay was too noisy at night time but I think this is how most of the accommodation is in the area. A lot of the travelers drink until very late without regards to people trying to rest up for next day’s journey.

DAY 4

Day 4 started the typical way – with a bahn mi and coffee for breakfast. We did not have to rush since we only had about 90KM to get home to Ha Giang. We picked a route that is known for better roads – go back North and take the shortcut to the same road we came from the first day, QL4C. This route took us first through some local villages and plenty of unpaved parts before reaching the main highway. We did not mind going back the same way we came from since the views were so breathtaking.

Day 4 ended back in Ha Giang around 2:30 PM. We left Du Gia around 9:30 AM so it was one of our short days. The weather was great – not too hot and not too cold. Out of 4 days, it was the nicest day we have had (ironically on our last day). I would say, be prepared for any type of weather on the loop – 40 degree heat, high wind, pouring rain, cold temperatures at high altitude. Layers and rain ponchos were our best friends.

We were happy to be back at Ngan Ha Homestay after our journey. We were exhausted but so thankful we did this. This was definitely a trip we will remember forever. Pictures do not show accurately the immense beauty Northern Vietnam offers!

Map of the loop route we took

Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng is a small town in the province of Vientiane surrounded by Nam Song river and multiple limestone cliffs and mountains. It has been famous for attracting backpacking crowds due to its popular river tubing activities. Young backpacking crowds used to go to the many riverside bars to get drunk. Needless to say that resulted in too many accidents which led to most of these establishments closing. Granted we were there in low season (June), Vang Vieng town Is nowadays a more quiet place centered around outdoor activities. There are many hotels overlooking the river and scenic nature and the streets are anything but busy. Getting here you have two options – bus & minivan. Buses take a few hours longer but are more comfortable. We opted for the minivan which took us around beautiful steep hills for 5 hours. The scenery was quite remarkable and could only be seen by picking the minivan option.

There are many different accommodation options you can choose from that fit all kinds of budgets. For mid-budget we recommend Jasmine Vang Vieng Hotel and Bearlin Bungalows. Bearlin Bungalows were situated a bit further from town but right in the middle of nature and the mountains you can only see from Vang Vieng. The hospitality and the cooking skills of the family that runs the place made the experience unforgettable. If you are looking for peaceful views and relaxing time, do not hesitate to book!
Jasmine Vang Vieng was a good option as well with clean rooms and beautiful balcony views of the mountains nearby.

We enjoyed the benefit of low season – empty hotels and streets. There was plenty of rain but it did not last long and the weather was hot so it did not really interrupt our exploration.

Phangern Viewpoint

This is not a well known attraction, we only say 2 or 3 other people climb it and we were completely alone on the top. It is a bit further out from town, across the river bridge and requires around 1 hour of climbing up and about 45 minutes down depending on fitness level. You can get to the trail leading to the viewpoint by motorcycle, tuk-tuk or walking. We were staying in bungalows nearby so it was easy for us to hike the hills.The hike was moderate but the heat and humidity made it quite a bit worse. There are many mosquitos around so do not attempt without a repellent. On top of that, the trail was very muddy and slippery. Flipflops and sandals are definitely not something you can hike in here! The struggle is worth it because the 360 degree views of Vang Vieng and its surroundings are 100% worth it!

Vientiane

3 hours away from Vang Vieng, Vientiane is the capital of Laos. Quite small for a capital, Vientiane is very traveler friendly and walkable giving us an excellent opportunity to explore around without renting a motorbike. Vientiane is situated on the Mekong River and its riverside hosts a daily night market. It is not the most vegetarian friendly place so I recommend going to one of the many delicious vegetarian-friendly restaurants or cafes in town. I had the best falafel pita in Asia (also the first one?) at Noy’s Fruit Heaven and the most delicious Indian Punjabi at Jamil Zahid Punjabi food. These places are great deal for your money and the food is beyond tasty!

Where to stay in Vientiane?

At only 10$ a night, Phonepaseuth Guesthouse was a steal. Clean rooms, strong wifi and good A/C (much needed during summer in SE Asia) are more than what we could have asked for.

The next day we were headed to Vientiane International Airport to start our journey in Vietnam! Thankfully, since it is such a small town, getting a bus (airport shuttle) to the airport was a breeze from anyone in the center for only 15,000 kip (about 2$).

Laos was such a pleasant surprise for both of us. We were not sure what to expect but now I would advise anyone to add this beautiful and welcoming country to their list! Delicious foods, scenic nature and quiet towns, Laos gave us an experience to remember.

“Why do you go away? So that you can come back. So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors. And the people there see you differently, too. Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.” 

A Hat Full of Sky, Terry Pratchett

Click here for a map of all points of interest

Small cafes, river views, French colonial architecture, beautiful temples.. You can easily fall in love with LP. Surrounded by two rivers and plenty of hills, this charismatic town will immediately put you in a relaxed mood. There are many cozy guesthouses alongside the river or tucked in small streets where you can experience local daily life. English is not very prevalent here, however, so communication gets lost easily.

CAFES

You may not have heard much about it but Lao coffee is actually quite good. Small towns like Luang Prabang gives you a great opportunity to sample some local coffee from surrounding family farms. We went to Saffron Coffee which was a bit on the expensive side but very tasty. The staff was welcoming and knowledgeable about what they sell.

There are quite a few coffee shops alongside Luang Prabang’s main street where you can indulge on caffeine and delicious pastries. We liked Saffron because our money directly contributes to the local communities who grow the coffee. Supporting local business is very important. We like to be educated about who starts the business, where the money goes and what their mission is. Granted we can never know for sure, I think it is important to try your best to learn.

VEGETARIAN FOOD AND LOCAL MARKET

Despite the main religion of Laos being Buddhism, Lao people eat plenty of meat. We visited a few restaurants and two markets (morning and night) throughout our stay in Luang Prabang.

The Night Market

It is a small market close to the Mekong River that has mainly clothes, jewelry and souvenirs. My best find was the vegetarian buffet tucked in the end of a small ally that sells primarily grilled meats. The buffet costs only 15K for a whole plate of vegetarian food. The food, however, did not taste too flavorful and seemed a bit stale. It could have been that we were there during low season and I felt like this place was mostly visited by Western tourists. The other two options you have as vegetarian in Luang Prabang’s night market include fruit shakes (AMAZING ones) and baguette sandwiches. We went back to the same girl selling fruit shakes right after the shopping part of the market as you enter the food section. One shake is about 1.10$ (10K kip) and you can get pretty much any fruit in it! What a steal. One of us (Nikolai) is a huge mango fan so needless to say, we spent quite a bit of time at that fruit shake stand.

The baguette sandwiches run about 10K kip as well and you can get them meat-free. The avocado-vegetables combo truly hit the spot during one of our nights of market exploration. The coconut pancakes are also a must if you are craving something sweet. They are tiny so no need to feel guilty after!

Restaurants

We visited Utopia which is a decent option for food (not amazing) but complements the experience with fantastic views over the river. We highly recommend you stop by Utopia during the day and at night time. It is backpacker crowd but still makes for a unique, chill experience. Luang Prabang is such a small town yet full of quaint restaurants and cafes. One that we recommend is Phonheuang Café which had plenty of excellent vegetarian options and very competitive prices! There is no view but you get delicious food instead. We tried the Bo bun (Vietnamese dish), spring rolls and local river weed as appetizer! River weed was definitely not on the top of our food choices but it turned out quite delicious and savory. Kaipen goes really well with a cold Beerlao.

Food wise, overall Laos gets the vegetarian stamp of approval. There are some delicious options that include tofu or fresh vegetables. For the carnivore, there is plenty of good pork dishes including legs. Not sure how I feel about that.

Morning Market

The Morning market goes from around 8am until 9am and it is not for the faint at heart. The location is a street over from the night market but the difference in foods could not be more apparent. It is definitely a local place where pretty much no one caters to Western visitors. Make your own judgment here. 🙂

The food stalls are mainly full of fresh food – meat, fish, poultry and a little bit of fruits. The variety of meats is incredible.. from the tiniest mammal to frogs, snakes and lizards. I will spare you the pictures but you can see a lot of exotic foods here if this is your goal.

KUANG SI FALLS

The reason why many people visit Luang Prabang is actually outside of Luang Prabang. Kuang Si Falls is one of the best waterfalls in Southeast Asia and it is around 1 hour away from LP. We hired a motorbike to get there in order to have as much time as we want there but you can get on any tuk-tuk or minivan and get to this magnificent natural beauty. The waterfalls has multiple levels and the best thing you can do is climb to the very top where there is few people. Water is clear and blue in color which seemed inviting in the scorching heat. During rainy season here, temperature easily reaches almost 40 and the humidity adds on degrees. Kuang Si can give you quite the escape from the heat!

Before you enter the waterfall, there is also a bear sanctuary where wild bears have been saved from the poaching industry and now happily reside in the premises. There is plenty of beautiful bears with different personalities, sizes and history of how they got to the shelter. The entry fee to Kuang Si (20,000kip) includes the entry to the sanctuary and should not be skipped. I support the mission of true animal sanctuaries and hope that once healed, these wild bears will be back where they belong in nature. Unfortunately, Asia’s wildlife suffers a lot from human impact. Animals are becoming extinct due to different species being hunted for “medicinal” purposes or being deprived of their habitat. It is important that we support communities that are helping & keep healthy animals thriving.

MOUNT PHOUSI

Really easy to climb up and reach, is Mount Phousi, about 100 meter hill top with a temple and stunning view of both rivers surrounding Luang Prabang. Entry fee is 20,000 kip (2.50$) BUT if you go through the exit on the street where the night market is, you may be able to avoid it. The hill is not very high but provided us with a scenic 360 degree view of our surroundings. The sunset did not disappoint. Mount Phousi is right in the middle of Old Town Luang Prabang therefore it is easy to spot.

Luang Prabang was definitely the highlight of our trip to Laos. The town has such a laid-back feel and friendly vibe, that you feel at home right away.. 🙂 We would definitely be back! Our next stop is Vang Vieng, a fun 5 hour mini bus journey from LP.

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May your adventures bring you closer together, even as they take you far away from home.

Trenton Lee Stewart

When we started discussing going to Laos, we were excited to find out that there is an option to do it via boat. This is not the first time we have chosen this method of transportation (Coron -> Manila ship ride) and while it being a long journey, we knew it will be memorable and give us a chance to explore the Mekong countryside.

We spent a night in Chiang Rai after an interesting 3.5 hour bus journey through dusty construction before heading out on another unfamiliar ride to the border. Chiang Rai is a lot smaller than Chiang Mai and boosts with a few main attractions. The White Temple and the Blue Temple (Wat Rong Khun and Wat Rong Suea Ten, respectively).

It is best to make a stop in either Chiang Mai or Chiang Khong if you are on the way to the slow boat in Laos to give yourself enough time to make it to the last boat (11:30AM) and minimize your hours in transit in one day.

Honestly, we thought the journey will be easier to make but it seemed like we had challenge after challenge until we got ourselves on the 11:30 am boat. We started from Chiang Rai at 6AM (this is the first bus you can take to the border). The bus ticket is more expensive (100 baht) to the border rather than the town of Chiang Khong which is across the river from Laos. You will see a lot of the same people once you start on this journey. All the travelers got off at the same spot, the Thai border. We passed immigration, received our exit stamp and waited for everyone to board a bus to the Lao border. You cannot really rush through here, I was surprised, because the bus literally waits for everyone to be done. We tried to be first at every line but ended up waiting on the same people all two days of traveling up to the boat pier in Luang Prabang where there were tuk-tuks to town. So unless you are prepared to spend a lot more for private transport, you will end up wasting quite a bit of time waiting on people and most likely get on the last boat of the day depending on your fellow travelers.

A short 5-10 minute ride and we made it to the Lao border. This process was on the time consuming side since everyone had to get visa on arrival. It costs between 30-40 USD and the Lao immigration is preeeetty picky on which banknotes they will accept.

We received our visa – of course not without our usual waiting around. We had another ride ahead of us to the slow boat. The tuk-tuks normally wait outside border immigration and will take as many people as they can for about 20,000kip each. They will try to sell you a slow boat ticket as well but it is about 1$ more expensive than getting it at the pier. It is definitely not much of a difference so if you prefer the no hassle to go to the pier ticket office, just buy one ticket at the Lao border.

More waiting around… only to find out there is only one boat left, the one at 11:30am. So there was no need to stress or hurry, everyone was going to the same place, the same time. We grabbed some lunch, bought our ticket and we were on our boat 1 for the first day of our journey.

Make sure you get early on the boat both days. You want to snatch good seats in front of the boat, away from the engines. The first day, there were some tables as well next to the seats so it was very comfortable ride. Seats are first come, first serve.

The first day started on time (11:30am) and we made it to our first stop, Pakbeng around 5:30pm. Unfortunately, we made the mistake of booking a room while on the boat for double the price you will get when you get to the pier and negotiate. On top of it all, the room was quite basic, worn down and not the cleanest. We made the stop worth it by exploring the surroundings and waking up early enough to see the elephants from a sanctuary across the Mekong River. Especially during the heat of rainy season, it is probably best to do all your exploration during the early hours of the day or evening time.

Pakbeng is a very small town and welcomes tourists daily as it is the mid-point stop of the 2-day journey by boat to Thailand/Laos. After leaving the guesthouse in the morning, we gathered enough food for an even longer day on the boat. The second day we had a different boat and the start time was 9AM. Of course, having learned our lesson, we were one of the first people to get on the boat and find decent seats.

We traveled for about 8 hours until we reached Luang Prabang. The boat went through mountainous regions and small villages which gave us a glimpse into the lives of many Lao people. The boat stopped at many little “piers” to drop off and pick up locals. Once you start completing submerging into this experience, time goes pretty quickly. I mean, I cannot promise that you will not be sweaty and uncomfortable, but there are ways to manage.

The scenery near Luang Prabang started to change from small hill to magnificent limestone Karst formations. We saw caves and unfinished bridges. Our final destination was a nearby to LP pier where absolutely none of the visitors knew we were supposed to get off at… 🙂 It is such an experience to be with so many open-minded travelers from all over the world and yet we were all oh so confused! From the out of town pier we had to get on yet another tuk-tuk with other travelers and be transported to the center of town. Cost is 20,000 kip per person and the journey takes about 15 minutes. The heat was very real during this hot and humid rainy season so we were beyond relieved to finally make it to an air conditioned room!

The trip was very long but if you are not short in time, it is a great idea. It is no luxury cruise – you may be cramped, you will be hungry, tired, hot, but I guarantee an unforgettable experience! You meet other fellow travelers, enjoy amazing Lao scenery and well, spend your day on a river. 🙂 You have a lot of time with others but also time to spend in your own thoughts. I would rule out sleeping as a possibility though.

But why a slow boat? It is actually quite dangerous to take a speed boat on the Mekong. There are many hidden rocks and unpredictable rapids that have resulted in accidents. The safest and the most relaxing way is taking a slow boat. You can get up and walk around, enjoy good views, have a beer and take in the rural Lao scenery. We definitely do not regret it but it is one long journey! I am not sure I would be up for it again any time soon. 🙂

 “Better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times”

We had to say goodbye to Bali.. it was difficult but we were not heading out to a bad place. Quite the opposite, our next stop is Chiang Mai, Thailand. We gave Air Asia another chance and had actually a decent experience with both of our flights being on time and quite comfortable (DPS –> BKK –> CNX). Pro budget tip: take the bus from the airport instead of taxi or tuk-tuk. It will take longer but one ride is only 20baht (less than 1$) compared to 150 baht +(5$+) for the other transport options.

Having already been in Thailand, I felt like I knew what to expect. This trip was quite different! North of Thailand is very unique from the rest of the country. There is an abundance of rolling hills, beautiful temples and endless night markets. Here is what went down in Chiang Mai this week for us. If you are traveling, there are some great ideas!

The Night Markets

We spent a week in Chiang Mai and visited all possible night markets in town. As a vegetarian, it was a bit challenging to find something to eat but not impossible.

The Sunday night market being the most popular had the most options for vegans/vegetarians. I found multiple stands with vegetarian spring rolls, dumplings, samosas, falafel and Indian food. I was able to find mushroom noodles and other varieties of boiled or fried vegetables. It is not impossible but you have to be inquisitive and not get frustrated! Grilled corn is always a safe option but make sure you go to a stand that grills only that not meat as well because … well, you will be eating corn and tasting sausages.

The market we frequented most often was Chang Phuak Gate night market. It was less busy than both Saturday and Sunday night markets and more geared for locals meaning less expensive. Our rental was right next to the Night Bazaar which is open every night but mostly has clothing and jewelry. Night bazaar is definitely a place to experience, all kinds of sales vendors are out every night. You still have food options but we found a bit more expensive than the smaller markets.

Warorot market and the Fresh Fruit Market (they are right next to each other) are great for picking up fruits and vegetables. There is also an abundance of the famous elephant pants, dresses and variety of your typical for Southeast Asia goodies. Bargain down to get the best price, you will be surprised by how much the vendors would lower it. And by the way, as far as fruits go, mangos are everywhere and super cheap so if you are a fan, GET EXCITED!

But you ask, what do you eat at these markets? Is it safe?

All I have to say is – use common sense!

• Watch the food preparation.
• Choose cooked foods.
• Do not eat fruits that someone else has peeled/cut for you.
• Avoid fresh vegetables.
• Choose vendors that are busy (their food is not out for too long).
• I avoid milk & eggs.
• Take probiotics preventatively.

Of course you can be perfectly find even if you do not do all these things, but I try to be on the safe side always. So far, no issues!

Back to the good part: what to eat?

I can again focus on the vegetarian options.

First of all, these is plenty of desserts around! There are smoothies, Thai iced teas, mango sticky rice, roti gulay (pancake only way better), ice cream, fruit snacks, etc. So if you have a sweet tooth, you have come to the right place.

Pad thai. You can find vegetarian/tofu pad thai option almost anywhere! If you like fried noodles, you will not be disappointed. I had a couple of great dishes for about 40-baht which is a great deal for decent portion.

Not pictured: spring rolls, fried rice, samosas and sweet corn. Maybe not the most exciting things in the world, but they are made delicious in Thailand.

Just when you thought I was done with food.. let me tell you about another awesome thing to do when in Chiang Mai: take a cooking class!

Thai Cooking Class

Thai food is literally everywhere. It is literally across the street from our apartment in NYC. Nothing wrong with that, it is good, right? We always wanted to learn how to make curry and noodles the Thai way. The beauty of taking this course here is that, well, you are in Thailand! You learn from the experts. Also, you have access to all the original ingredients in every Thai dish you want to make. We were taken to the market in the morning before actually cooking and were explained their names, use and difference between their Western relatives. It is such a fun activity!

You do not even need to be a cook or have any skills to participate. Instructors are patient and you have fun regardless. Everyone makes their own delicious dish and trust us, it tastes so much better when you make it yourself!

Another bonus from this class is that we got to meet some other travelers which is always a plus.

Climb to Doi Pui Peak

Chiang Mai is a big city but also very close to nature! Doi Suthep, the mountain next to the city, is very easily accessible by motorbike or car. You can always hire a van or Grab to take you and wait for you while you hike or explore. It is a great way to get out of the business of Chiang Mai and be completely surrounded by nature.

Unfortunately for us, we are here in rainy season so weather is not cooperating necessarily. The views from the peak were covered by clouds but we did get some decent ones on the way to the peak! It takes about an hour from Chiang Mai to get to the mountain and once you reach Doi Pui trail, you hike to the top. It is a very simple hike, about 2km each way but quite remote as well. You only hear bugs and birds along the trail. This nature spot is not even busy so you can really enjoy alone or with significant other.

Bua Tong Falls or “sticky falls”

About an hour north from Chiang Mai is a mountainous area where Bua Tong Falls is located. It is worth the trip out if you have time! We have visited so many waterfalls throughout Southeast Asia but this was a very unique one. It may not have been spectacular in views but it was unique in how you can climb up and down the falls without any fear of slipping! The limestone rock makes your feet “stick” so you can safely enjoy the refreshing waterfall and explore its multiple levels. It was such a fun experience.

The area is very beautiful so you can drive around and enjoy some great views. There is a nearby cave as well that we visited. Unfortunately, the name of the cave escapes us but it was very close to the waterfalls with long steps up leading to it. The steps were beautifully decorated as giant dragons.

You can combine this trip with a visit to Wat Ban Den which is one of the most spectacular temples we have seen! It is about half an hour ride from Bua Tong.

Buddhist Temples

Chiang mai has hundreds of temples! You will see them literally everywhere. Some of them are bigger and more unique than others. We of course could not visit all of them but saw some that really are worth going to. We cannot speak of religious significance since we are not Buddhist but regardless, visiting a Thai temple is a must while here.

Doi Suthep (Wat Doi Suthep) is located in the mountain surrounding Chiang Mai. The temple is gorgeous and presents you with a huge beautiful area to walk around and see the city from up high. There are gardens and areas to meditate everywhere as well. Thai people also believe that the temple was built to hold a part of Buddha’s shoulder and dates back to 1386. It is a special place for the Lanna people (Northern Thailand kingdom) and remains a top destination for many foreigners.

Wat Ban Den is another beautiful Northern Thaiand temple. It is a bit further up north, about 1-1.5 hours but very much worth a visit. We walked around the temple for about an hour and saw quite a lot. Every detail was fascinating.

The temple has no entrance fee but make sure you have something to cover your shoulders and legs with or you will not be allowed.

Wat Ban Den is not an ancient temple by any means, it was recently renovated when abbot Kruba Tuaenng got ahold of the place. The work continues till this day as well, we saw some construction. I learned that the 12 chedis of the temple represent the 12 Thai zodiac signs. It is believed that people need to visit the chedi for their sign and each temple represents only one sign typically. Wat Ban Den has all twelve.

There is many temples in Chiang Mai itself that we were lucky enough to see on daily basis. A lot of them have entrance fees which makes it a bit impractical to visit all of them.

Samoeng Loop

Last but not least, one more day trip! Samoeng loop is a loop that starts and ends in Chiang Mai and goes around its mountainous region. On this route you will see countless rolling hills, waterfalls, lush forest, elephants and drink some amazing coffee! It is not touristy at all with barely anyone on the road. We did see some camps being built up in one of the view points leading us to think that this place may boom soon enough with foreign visitors.

The main attraction here is the view! The fresh air and the beautiful rolling hills that surround you as you drive up and down some windy roads.

Samoeng Loop is a great day trip option to explore the Thai countryside. Honestly, it is so different from what you see and hear about Thailand. It feels and looks wild and raw. Unfortunately, we did not have time to do the Mae Hong Son loop but this gave me a bit of a taste of riding in nature and really enjoying my surroundings. It was such a great experience and I am very glad we got to do it! We stopped multiple times whether it was for some nice Thai coffee or to admire the views, but the main beauty was just all around us once we left the city and disappeared in the Thai country. 🙂

Chiang mai is a must visit in Thailand! We could not do everything on our list even if we stayed another week. These markets and strolling around do not get old! But it is time to go – to Chiang Rai, elephant sanctuary time and then off to Laos. Chiang Mai is a great starting point also if you are heading off to Laos next.

Once you have travelled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.

Pat Conroy

We spent one week in Canggu, Bali, a trendy expat area with plenty of good restaurants, cafes and beach bars. It was very different from what we have seen so far in Bali. We were getting used to being the only foreigners around! In Canggu, you feel like you live in a Western country with beachy vibe. Depending on your style, you may or may not like it more than Ubud.

Canggu reminds me a bit of California and a bit of Brooklyn. There is the surfer vibe that we could sense around but also a focus on art and fashion in a unique way. Food wise, you can find so many healthy options – undoubtedly more than most places in Southeast Asia. There was a lack of Indonesian cuisine, however, and the few places that advertise it were focused on more fusion dishes that combine East and West. If you want a bit of home and you come from a big city in the US, UK or Australia, Canggu will give you a bit of that flavor. There is a lot of options for Western food and entertainment. I guess I did not know how much I missed a good brunch until we had one here.

BRUNCH

**Satu-Satu Coffee Company

Hands down, one of our favorite brunch spots. We came here twice for some colorful smoothie bowls and delicious avocado toast. Be prepared though – the place gets very busy and you will be surrounded by visitors. I like to be a bit more local but in this case, we could not pass up on the perfectly poached eggs and well made smoothie bowls.

The smashed avocado toast was not as picturesque but very delicious! It came with two poached eggs as well for extra protein.

**Hungry Bird

This spot was close to our villa so we decided to give it a try. The coffee was OUTSTANDING! Definitely some of our favorite in Bali. We bought some beans as well in order to have it pretty much daily for fraction of the cost.

Food wise, it is probably not the best place but it is still an acceptable option. There is no service charge which is nice and you order at the register. Expect to see many expats and foreign visitors. We felt more like we are in Australia or California than Indonesia.

Overall, Hungry Bird is definitely worth a visit for their coffee. Get some beans and have it at your villa – best way to start the day. Combine it with some local fresh papaya for breakfast. 🙂

**Jikaa Coffee x Eatery

I was way too hungry 🙂 for pictures but this place is another must for breakfast or lunch.. My carnivore boyfriend and I shared a tempe burger and a smoothie bowl. While we were not too crazy about the smoothie bowl (nothing as good as Satu Satu), the tempe burger was one of the best ones I have had. I consider myself an authority on tempe burgers by now. I tried sooo many of them all around Bali! Only thing is… if you anticipate sides, you will be disappointed. Food is simple but delicious and there is no service or tax which is always a plus here in Bali.

The smoothie bowl seemed a bit smaller than usual but tasted very healthy! It had refreshing watermelon and chia pudding which is unique for this spot. Overall, a good value but keep your mind open. Always be on the search for a good smoothie bowl!

DINNER

**JIB Fusion

If you are a fan of authentic fresh Indian food, this is THE place for you! The place is a bit further out from Canggu center but worth the trip if you love some good paneer, do not skip Jib fusion. The restaurant is very small and cozy. There is no service tax which again is a plus in Canggu. Canggu is on the expensive side compared to the rest of Bali mainly for added 10-20% service/local tax at some sit-down restaurants.

Food is cheap and delicious! Portions were not huge but that way you can get multiple things and share without feeling too full afterwards.

I cannot forget to mention that the menu here is mostly vegetarian!

**Darma’s kitchen

Another vegetarian-friendly Indian spot is close to Jib – Darma’s kitchen.

The roti here was fantastic! I wish we tried the samosas as well but unfortunately, they ran out. This is the thing about small local eats, ingredients are limited, seats are limited so always have a plan B if dinner does not work out as planned. Also, I believe the restaurant was closed on Wednesday, the first day we tried to visit it.

Overall, the food was delicious and hearty. Food is affordable – around 50K and it includes decent portions and two pieces of roti. No service tax. The place is great value for the money!

We were lucky enough to meet the chef a few times – at the restaurant and at the Sunday market. He seems passionate about what he does and he is very good at it.

Darma’s kitchen may not be in the center of Canggu but it is on the way to a nice local beach so if you have a motorcycle it will be an easy trip after a perfect Canggu sunset.

Plenty of vegetarian options here as well!

**Green Garden Cafe

Another local gem is Green Garden Cafe, a vegetarian spot in a central location. They offer seafood as well but the menu is mainly non-meat options (heaven for me 🙂 not so much my carnivore boyfriend). I had the tempe burger which was delicious and fresh and Nikolai had the tuna, also a great option!

The cafe is full of pet cats running around so if you are a cat person, you will enjoy the atmosphere. They seem happy and well-fed which is a nice change from most of Southeast Asia where stray animals are malnourished and injured typically.

For a small place, we were surprised to find a service tax. We found out it is not a clear-cut answer where these taxes go or if they are necessary so it is a bit of a letdown when we find places like that. Overall, the place became a bit on the pricier side after the taxes. However, our taste buds were happy and my vegetarian self satisfied with the variety of options.

**Dandelion

Am I saving the best for last? Maybe!

Dandelion is an Indonesian food restaurant but really, I would view it more as fusion. It has the traditional “goreng” dishes (nasi goreng, mie goreng) but they were made in a slightly more unique way than other warungs.

What really makes this restaurant stand out is the service! It was absolutely outstanding. You can tell that everyone working in the restaurant was genuine and willing to make your experience here memorable. We came here twice and both times the staff went above and beyond.

In a typical Bali fashion, there were plenty of vegetarian options. Both times I ordered their delicious mie goreng and a dadar gulung for dessert. The owner was nice enough to serve us complimentary ginger tea as well which was a nice touch. Prices were very affordable as well at each dish costing us around 40-70K and 7% service tax. For what you get, it is a small price to pay. Apart from the amazing mie goreng, what will be even more embedded in our memory is the excellent service. You do not feel like you are pushed to do anything, you just get a nice feel of genuine people who love what they do. Very different from the US or even a less customer service oriented country, Bulgaria…

**Just Warung

A no-fuss affordable restaurant with a nice view over rice fields. The atmosphere is serene. Another plus is it is located right next to a fruit market. 🙂 How convenient! We ate here two times and all local dishes. It satisfied our Indonesian food craving. We also got to taste arak which is an Indonesian alcohol.

Most traditional dishes were 25K and the meat ones a bit more. No service tax. They can make most dishes vegetarian, just ask. Overall, another great value in Canggu! Very good Indonesian food.

Canggu is a unique place to visit. The mix of cultures living together has reflected into its food scene. I appreciated the different options and I am glad we visited. We focused a lot on exploring restaurants, cafes, and spas around town. It was the perfect place to relax and be our foodie selves. 🙂 If you want a traditional Bali experience though, you may have to look a bit further.

 “Don’t tell me how educated you are, tell me how much you have travelled.”

Mohammed

After Nusa Penida’s scary but picturesque cliffs and beaches, it was time to head to a bit more undiscovered part of Bali – Munduk. Munduk is a tiny mountainous village that offers seclusion, plenty of hikes and delicious coffee! We keep raving about the coffee here and it is for a reason. We finally tried Luwak coffee, made from civet cat’s excrements. No, not joking. And it is some of the most expensive coffee in the world. They say it is partly due to the fermentation and partly due to the fact the animal picks the best beans to eat.

Find a good local coffee spot

Eco Cafe was a nice spot to taste locally and ethically made coffee. We highly recommend stopping by if in the region to enjoy some good coffee and food. We loved the atmosphere and the local tips we received. The cafe gives back to the community and uses local ingredients which is always a plus!

Some important things to note about Luwak coffee is that it is rarely made ethically. You have to make sure you do your research and do not support caging of the animals. Sometimes they are force fed and caged in order to produce the most coffee beans possible. It is bad for the animal and I doubt putting this in your body is that great for you either. That’s why we held off on trying it for so long until we find the best place. The coffee itself is great but I don’t think we would be spending more money on it. There is a lot of other good coffee at an affordable price. In fact, the first thing we did in Bali was buy coffee beans and make our own cup every day. 🙂

One more tip I would give is to have all the dadar gulung you can have while in Bali! Dadar gulung is a Balinese dessert roll made of coconut and palm sugar. It is more like a pancake, only a lot more delicious than any American, Bulgarian or French crepe we have had.

Explore the area’s many waterfalls

Okay, okay, besides eating, we had to move around or things would have gone ugly. The beauty of Munduk lies in its lush fields, rice paddies, coffee trees and mountain peaks. The area is a bit colder than the rest of Bali which makes it a nice escape from the heat.

Melanting Waterfall was our first spot. It was close to our homestay but the hike was still challenging – lots of confusing pathways and jungle vegetation. Entry was 10,000 IDR (unfortunately a lot of the natural sights around had entrance fees, people would not let you go without paying even though it is not completely legal to collect money). Getting down to the waterfall involved a lot of steps which seemed to have doubled in number on the way up!

Labuhan Kebo Waterfall was about 500 meters from Melanting and was situated in a picturesque lush green area with a river right through it. The locals have done a great job building bamboo bridges and some benches for the visitors to enjoy. The waterfall is very similar to Melanting so if you are limited on time I would pick one or the other. Munduk Waterfall is very close to the other two waterfalls we visited together – it all took around an hour to an hour and a half depending on pace. Munduk waterfall has an entrance fee of 20,000IDR but we went later in the day and did not end up paying. Honestly, it was not as majestic as a lot of other waterfalls we have seen so I am not sure the entry is worth it. We could not see everything but it is not encouraging to slap fees on everything. Sekumpul Waterfall was the worst where tourists cannot go down to the waterfall without paying expensive fees (150,000 to 300,000IDR).

Sekumpul Waterfall is the highlight of the area made famous by Instagram influencers and vloggers. Its height is 80 meters making it great for some drone shots and videos. We did not go down to the waterfall but went only for the viewpoint. It was still great to enjoy but disappointing in how the locals have turned this place into a money-making scheme against tourists.

Unfortunately, our motorbike broke along the way so we did not make it to Bayunmala Twin Waterfall but we heard it is a must in the area!

Ulun Danu Bratan Temple

This temple is situated about 20 minutes from Munduk surrounded by mountains and a beautiful lake. Pay a visit to this temple – the area is so gorgeous, you can spend hours walking! Balinese people really take care of their surroundings. There are always gardens and well-kept houses even in the tiniest villages. This temple was picturesque and the backdrop was very unique. Being on a lake made it even more gorgeous.

Twin Lakes

We rode our motorbike around (before it died on us!) which presented us with many breathtaking views. Some of our favorites were of the twin lakes right next to Munduk. We did not have time to go down and explore further but the views were incredible!

I highly recommend renting a bike here and exploring the surroundings. Even if you just want to relax and enjoy some views of mountains and the sea, we highly recommend Made’s Warung for food and views! The owner presented us with some good tips, delicious food and outstanding Balinese hospitality!

Honestly, there is more you can do in the area – there is an abandoned hotel that is completely finished but no one lives or work there but we did not have a working moto or time to visit. We would pay it a visit next time. For accommodation we stayed at Taman Ayu Homestay which was very affordable, had good breakfast and direct view over the mountains and valleys.

We loved Munduk due to its local vibe, less explored areas, mountainous regions and fresh air. I would recommend that anyone visiting Bali adds it to the list. Hope it stays as beautiful and isolated as we saw it. : )

Not until we are lost do we begin to understand ourselves.

Henry David Thoreau

We disappeared for a little bit partly due to a lack of stable internet connection but also because of how busy our travel days have been. We left Ubud about a week ago to visit the neighboring islands of Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan and the highlight, Nusa Penida. We woke up early and ordered a Grab car to take us to Sanur where the boats leave. After some haggling (which is becoming so natural nowadays!) we were able to get a decent price for the next boat out to Nusa Lembongan. From there you can easily go to the other two Nusa islands. The highlight, though, is Nusa Penida! You can go directly from Sanur or by public boat from Nusa Ceningan which is what we opted for after a couple of days on the other island.

We keep extending our days here – the island is that beautiful! But this is most definitely the most dangerous place we have been to – so many opportunities to be killed quickly if not careful. Big swells, unpredictable currents, sharp cliffs, no railings, gravel roads. These were the scariest roads we have ever been on. Keep in mind though, the views are so worth it! And the hikes up and down give you quite the cardio!

While there is so much to see on all of the Nusa islands, I wanted to share some of our top favorites. Definitely if you are ever in Bali, take the time and make the trip out. Nusa Penida in particular is not yet overcrowded with tourists so its natural beauty truly shines. The challenging roads and waters shouldn’t deter you – we will leave with countless new memories.

Atuh Beach and Diamond Beach

I am grouping these two together because they are only separated by a cliff and maybe… 700 steps up and down or so? Diamond beach recently became open for the public and can be accessed by narrow steps through a cliff (this will be theme of our travels here!). Both beaches are fantastic but Diamond Beach was the highlight – clear water, pristine stretch of sand, not many people and magnificent waves. You can spend your day here easily! The entrance fee is 15K rupiah but if you park on the Atuh beach side, it is free.

Saren Cliff Point

The road to this viewpoint was very treacherous, we almost gave up on finding it. In the end, we parked the scooter at one point and just continued walking towards the cliff point. There weren’t any other visitors and signs were either destroyed or difficult to read. I am glad we ended up deciding to pursue the path without the scooter! The road was very rough but the viewpoint was spectacular. There was no one else in sight and we spent quite a bit of secluded time enjoying the surroundings.

Tembeling Beach and Forest

Right next to the path for Saren Cliff Point, we discovered another steep path down to Tembeling Beach and Forest. We were not sure what to expect after a crazy ride down (think half a meter narrow “road” and some scary sights in both directions) but we embarked on the adventure. Back in our New York days, we were going out for a meal to relax from the day at work, in Nusa Penida, even going out for dinner is a scary adventure!

After reaching the end of the road, we discovered a trek down waiting for us. The sight was beautiful and worth the way down! Lush green colors, monkeys jumping around, waves in the distance, and natural rock pools were some of the nature wanders that surrounded us.

Kelingking Beach

Kelingking beach is the most famous attraction on the island. A T-Rex shaped cliff surrounds a pristine blue water beach that awaits after a very tough steep hike down.

As we have learned in Nusa Penida so far, nothing is completely safe here! The stairs down were very steep and broken. The way up was even more challenging – the rocks were slippery and unstable. We were slow and careful the entire time and thankfully, we made it up with all our belongings and quite a bit of sweat! It was worth it.

The beach down was a dream. Big waves, clean sand, beautiful cliffside views are what awaits you. It is amazing to think what mother nature has created! No wonder so many people flock to see this place. Pictures really do not do justice to Kelingking beach and the entire island for that matter. We had multiple daily adventures and could not have been happier here. Sometimes things got a little too rough and exhausting but overall we loved every scenic spot we visited.

Angel’s Billabong and Broken Beach

We headed here after Kelingking beach directly despite our level of tiredness. The bad roads really got to us by the end of this trip. Coming from Kelingking it took us about 20 minutes via a lot of sketchy roads to finally make it to Angel’s Billabong and Broken Beach. Angel’s Billabong is basically a rock pool that becomes swimmable * (asterisk here, still not perfectly safe due to tides and monster waves) at low tide. If you remember our blog about Magpunpungko in the Philippines, it is something similar except smaller and as is everything else in Nusa Penida, more dangerous. The views are great from both spots so you can definitely spend an hour at sunset enjoying them even if you decide not to swim.

Overall, both spots are great to visit! We got to marvel at what mother nature has done once again here in Nusa Penida. Yes, it may be tough to get to these places but it is so worth it!

Snorkel/Dive with manta rays

Manta rays are magnificent and graceful creatures. It was a must for us to see them up close. Nusa Penida is their home year-around so you could see them almost any day. You can dive at Manta Point where they get cleaned from parasites or Manta Bay where they feed on the plankton brought by the currents. We did the ladder and saw multiple manta rays swimming gracefully around us. The sea was a bit rough so you have to be careful but you can still enjoy seeing the manta rays in their habitat. I am not the greatest swimmer (thankfully Nikolai is!!) so it was a bit challenging to enjoy my snorkeling but overall it was an experience to remember! Thankfully, the mantas swim fairly close to the surface so diving was not necessary.

Nusa Penida is definitely our favorite island! There is so much natural beauty all around that you can spend months exploring. The power of the ocean gave us a spectacle to admire each day. Safety standards were next to none which contributed to the wildness of this visit. You have to take care of yourself, be smart and extra careful. I am glad I was lucky enough to have a great partner with me who kept me safe and whom I kept safe to enjoy everything the island has to offer! Until next time, Nusa Penida, it will not be long.

If you think adventure is dangerous, try routine, it’s lethal.

Paulo Coelho